Inari & Nara

Taking day trip from Kyoto means more train travel, which I'm beginning to really like. One it gives me an opportunity to see the countryside and two, it lets me rest my tired feet after a long day of serious sightseeing.
And the people-watching is fantastic.

Today I stopped at Inari, a couple of stops outside Kyoto, to climb the hill with 10,000 torii. Really - 10,000. The particular guardians for the shrines, large and small, are my favorite - foxes. Their expressions are so powerful. And you get the feeling they like people (unlike the lion-like guradians).

Where were we -- oh yes, marching uphill. And up stairs. And then more uphill and more stairs. Forever. Well, at least for an hour. But every turn brought a new delight. I wondered about how long the torii last and found workmen in the process of replacing posts. It must be a continuous process in this damp climate. It was so nice to be away from concrete, with a cooling breeze, in a delightful, mossy forest. And of course after all the climbing, I got to go downhill. What a relief.

Per my guidebook, I decided to find an out of the way (in fact almost impossible to find) shrine which is said to be dedicated to easing the spirits of the dead and soothing the minds of the living. It was a bit unnerving actually. All these little figures, very weather-worn dotting the hillsides. Some were covered in moss or black from being in the shade all the time. The entrance to the shrine was different too - an low archway instead of the soaring gates or torii of previous shrines. So glad I made the effort to visit. I can gurantee you that few tourists make it there.

On to Nara. Two famous temples: Todai-ji with its enormous bronze Buddha and Kasuga Taisha with its 3000 lanterns situated around the property. Both were magnificent in very different ways.

Of course, when you go to Nara, people talk mostly about the deer. These deer are protected because they are messengers of the gods (I approve). They are still wild animals though, and it is prudent to approach quietly and move slowly. Which of course is not what happens at all. School children by the hundreds, girls giggling and shrieking in mock fright, boys showing bravado, mob the deer. The deer, bless 'em, are very much in charge and remain calm thoughout. They do have a habit of nuzzling with increasing intensity if they think you have biscuits to offer, but once they realize you are foodless, they are happy to move off. I've never seen so many fat and contented deer in my life.

It was a veeery long day of walking around (again) and the train home was almost too short. What is it about trains that rock you to sleep while boats only make you sea sick?

More pictures to follow.